Thursday, June 7, 2012

Big pain leaves to go with the cute log cabins

I've started on the applique blocks that go with the cute little log cabin blocks I posted about last time. The acorns went rather smoothly, but those little oak leaves were/are a big pain in the tushy. Only three more to go on this block. Thank goodness there are only four of these blocks!

I've tried tracing them then appliqueing, freezer paper on the back, freezer paper on the front, spray starch, and even gave reverse applique serious consideration. The problem is, they are so small that when you clip the valleys, there isn't much fabric to get turned under. Then I'm left with fraying threads. I have not tried Fray Check, but I wonder if it would leave the fabric with a wet look even when its dry.

I think the freezer paper on the back with the edges ironed to the wax is working the best. On the first leaf I stitched down, I put lots of little stitches in the valleys to hopefully keep the fraying at bay. I'm hoping the Applique Fairy will visit me in my sleep and give me a simple solution.


  1. Master Appliquer Mary Sorenson doesn't clip curves. She holds the fabric with both forefingers and thumbs - then, kind of twists back and forth gently at the spot to be turned under. It kind of prepares the fabric to go the way you want it to go. I've taken three of her classes and she is superb.

    1. Thanks for the info. It sounds like just the kind of class I need!

  2. That looks like a lot of work, Tina! I don't envy you with those inside turns on the leaves!

  3. I read your question on the DJ emails about problem appliqueing you Oak leaves. When i prepare a piece for applique i use the mylar and liquid starch technique. cut your mylar (plastic that takes heat) shape the exact shape you need (does not include seams allowance) then lay that mylar shape on the wrong side of the fabric but add a scant 1/4" all around, then using a stencil brush 'paint' the starch on the seam....then with a dry iron, iron the seam over the mylar shape. I usually do the outside points or the outside areas of your oak leaf...this will hold the fabric in place. you do have to hold the iron in place until the starch dries...moveing iron up and down....not ironing. really wet the inside areas with lots of liquid starch and i don't make slits...the starch will mold the fabric for you. I sometimes use heavy duty foil the same size as the fabric to 'mold' the shape in place and then iron dry. email me if you need more help. Nancy

  4. Thanks Nancy! I did get some mylar a while back but haven't tried it yet. I may have to dig it out.